Servicing Tires With 18-In.-Plus Rims

Brake Pad Confusion: What Is The Best Brake Pad?

ADAS Calibration - Myths and Operation

How To Answer Customer Ride Control Questions

Servicing Tires With 18-In.-Plus Rims

Brake Pad Confusion: What Is The Best Brake Pad?

ADAS Calibration - Myths and Operation

How To Answer Customer Ride Control Questions

Sponsored By BCA Bearings by NTN

Sponsored By Carter Fuel Systems

Rotating Electrical: Solving the “No Problem Found” (NPF) Return

Alternators have historically been one of the highest returned “No Problem Found” parts in our industry. For shop owners, this means reduced efficiency, unnecessary operating costs, and reduced customer satisfaction. This webinar will discuss how you can avoid the unneeded parts returns and more accurately diagnose today’s charging systems.

Join us as we cover:

Speakers Randy Briggs, Carquest Technical Institute, Research and Development Manager Brian Sexton, Automotive Technical Writer, Babcox Media

The July issue includes technical and management content and is free to download and read.

Presenting your customer with inspection results and benefits of replacement will help sell the job.

The reality is that if you can master some very general skills, ADAS is not rocket science.

Brake & Front End serves repair shops conducting a high volume of undercar repairs by providing application-specific technical information and solutions to address emerging trends in the undercar repair segment. By subscribing, you’ll receive the ShopOwner digital edition magazine (12 times/year) featuring articles from Brake & Front End and the Brake & Front End eNewsletter (twice weekly). Access to digital editions, contests, news, and more are ready for you today!

Brake & Front End serves repair shops conducting a high volume of undercar repairs by providing application-specific technical information and solutions to address emerging trends in the undercar repair segment. By subscribing, you’ll receive the ShopOwner digital edition magazine (12 times/year) featuring articles from Brake & Front End and the Brake & Front End eNewsletter (twice weekly). Access to digital editions, contests, news, and more are ready for you today!

Auto Pros on the Road puts the Babcox Media into shops across the USA. This episode is sponsored by FRAM.

Don’t settle for “almost” - it matters where the engine is manufactured or remanufactured. Sponsored by ACDelco.

GM transmissions and transfer cases are unique to each individual vehicle. This video is sponsored by ACDelco.

Don’t settle for “almost” - it matters where the engine is manufactured or remanufactured. Sponsored by ACDelco.

Click here  to view past issues.

Many automakers are putting more “meat” on rotors compared to just a decade ago. Also, OE ceramic brake formulations are minimizing rotor wear due to less aggressive formulations that transfer a layer of friction material to the rotor. This means that rotors are lasting longer and seeing two or more sets of pads.

Lathes are the best weapon against lateral runout.

M any automakers are putting more “meat” on rotors compared to just a decade ago. Also, OE ceramic brake formulations are minimizing rotor wear due to less aggressive formulations that transfer a layer of friction material to the rotor. This means that rotors are lasting longer and seeing two or more sets of pads.     AdvertisementIs there profit in machining rotors? Yes, but you have to be willing to change your thinking and procedures. Your shop must also be willing to charge more for machining rotors. Installing new rotors is not a way to avoid having to use a micrometer or dial indicator. For every brake job, you should always measure for runout (rotor and flange) and the dimensions of the rotor before brake service is performed. After the rotor is resurfaced or a new rotor is installed, it should be measured for runout as a quality control method. A new rotor could have excessive runout when it is installed on the vehicle due to a stacking of tolerances. AdvertisementIt has often been said that you should never machine new rotors. But, what if the runout exceeds the manufacturer’s specifications when the new rotor is installed on the vehicle? This is when it is permissible to machine a new rotor with an on-the-car brake lathe. This helps to match the rotors to the hub flange. If your brake lathe looks like this, you might be causing more problems. EQUIPMENT POSITIONING For far too long, brake lathes (bench and on-the-car) were pushed to the back of the shop. This can kill productivity. A brake lathe can be a noisy and dirty piece of equipment if not operated properly, but having to walk halfway across the shop a few times can make it a productivity killer. Position your brake lathe where you perform the most brake work.  Every brake lathe requires some calibration and maintenance. Installing and measuring a high-quality new brake rotor can give you an idea if arbor is bent or there is internal wear. The key is repeatablity after the rotor has been repositioned on the arbor. Also, check for excessive movement in the cutting head as shown below. ADAPTERS AND ACCESSORIES Not having the right adapters and accessories can be a productivity killer, as well. Having to set up a lathe multiple times for the same rotor, or cutting runout into a rotor due to a mounting error can be very frustrating. Having the right adapters and accessories can speed setup and prevent mistakes.Just remember, the rotor should be removed to measure runout in the wheel’s flange. Even if you are using an on-the-car brake lathe, you should always remove the rotor before turning it. Removing the rotor may seem to mitigate the time-saving advantage of an on-the-car lathe, but it is a critical step that can help accentuate this type of lathe’s main advantage — reducing runout and thickness variation. ALWAYS MEASURE You may think that you are not paid to measure thickness and runout, but are you paid for a comeback? Even if you install a new rotor, you are setting yourself up for a comeback if you do not measure using a micrometer or dial indicator. Even a “perfect” rotor will have runout if it is put on a flange with runout or corrosion. AdvertisementCUT IN ONE PASS Cutting a rotor in one pass is essential for productivity. For non-composite rotors, it is possible to take off as much as 0.020″ per side while still having an acceptable finish. However, with a composite rotor or one with hard spots, the depth should be reduced, likely below 0.010″ per side for a quality finish. In order to remove this much material, it is essential to have sharp bits. Correct cone adapter Incorrect cone adapter To cut a rotor fast, you must go slow with the crossfeed. Cutting too fast will reduce the cut quality and possibly create chatter. A larger diameter rotor will need to turn slower than a small diameter one. Single-speed lathes are set at the slower speed of the largest application they are designed to cut. This is usually around 0.002″ per revolution. For the speed of the arbor, rules are the same as the crossfeed: the bigger the piece, the slower the feed. Again, single-pass lathes are set to the slowest speed, typically around 100 rpm. Advertisement Being able to measure and machine rotors efficiently is critical. If you do not think you can do it the right way, it is time to invest in equipment and training or get out of the brake business. 

Is there profit in machining rotors? Yes, but you have to be willing to change your thinking and procedures. Your shop must also be willing to charge more for machining rotors.

Installing new rotors is not a way to avoid having to use a micrometer or dial indicator. For every brake job, you should always measure for runout (rotor and flange) and the dimensions of the rotor before brake service is performed.

After the rotor is resurfaced or a new rotor is installed, it should be measured for runout as a quality control method. A new rotor could have excessive runout when it is installed on the vehicle due to a stacking of tolerances.

It has often been said that you should never machine new rotors. But, what if the runout exceeds the manufacturer’s specifications when the new rotor is installed on the vehicle? This is when it is permissible to machine a new rotor with an on-the-car brake lathe. This helps to match the rotors to the hub flange.

If your brake lathe looks like this, you might be causing more problems.

For far too long, brake lathes (bench and on-the-car) were pushed to the back of the shop. This can kill productivity. A brake lathe can be a noisy and dirty piece of equipment if not operated properly, but having to walk halfway across the shop a few times can make it a productivity killer. Position your brake lathe where you perform the most brake work. 

Every brake lathe requires some calibration and maintenance. Installing and measuring a high-quality new brake rotor can give you an idea if arbor is bent or there is internal wear. The key is repeatablity after the rotor has been repositioned on the arbor. Also, check for excessive movement in the cutting head as shown below.

Not having the right adapters and accessories can be a productivity killer, as well. Having to set up a lathe multiple times for the same rotor, or cutting runout into a rotor due to a mounting error can be very frustrating. Having the right adapters and accessories can speed setup and prevent mistakes.Just remember, the rotor should be removed to measure runout in the wheel’s flange.

Even if you are using an on-the-car brake lathe, you should always remove the rotor before turning it. Removing the rotor may seem to mitigate the time-saving advantage of an on-the-car lathe, but it is a critical step that can help accentuate this type of lathe’s main advantage — reducing runout and thickness variation.

You may think that you are not paid to measure thickness and runout, but are you paid for a comeback? Even if you install a new rotor, you are setting yourself up for a comeback if you do not measure using a micrometer or dial indicator. Even a “perfect” rotor will have runout if it is put on a flange with runout or corrosion.

Cutting a rotor in one pass is essential for productivity. For non-composite rotors, it is possible to take off as much as 0.020″ per side while still having an acceptable finish. However, with a composite rotor or one with hard spots, the depth should be reduced, likely below 0.010″ per side for a quality finish. In order to remove this much material, it is essential to have sharp bits.

To cut a rotor fast, you must go slow with the crossfeed. Cutting too fast will reduce the cut quality and possibly create chatter. A larger diameter rotor will need to turn slower than a small diameter one. Single-speed lathes are set at the slower speed of the largest application they are designed to cut. This is usually around 0.002″ per revolution.

For the speed of the arbor, rules are the same as the crossfeed: the bigger the piece, the slower the feed. Again, single-pass lathes are set to the slowest speed, typically around 100 rpm.

Being able to measure and machine rotors efficiently is critical. If you do not think you can do it the right way, it is time to invest in equipment and training or get out of the brake business. 

Wheel End:  Decrypting Brake Pad Edge Codes

Wheel End:  Understanding EV Wheel Hub Bearings

Wheel End:  Composite Brake Rotor Service Opportunities

Wheel End:  Proper Alignment is Critical to ADAS Operation

Technical Resources for diagnosing and servicing undercar components